8/1/10 - Lone Wolf Knives in Portland, Oregon, is the manufacturer of high-quality, semi-custom hunting, utility and tactical knives. Lone Wolf produces knives of their own design, as well as collaborations with well-known custom knife designers and makers. Specializing mostly in folding knives, Lone Wolf has some very unique folders in their product line. At first glance, these folding pocket knives look like high quality, one-hand opening folding knives, which they are. Even after examination, what is not obvious about them is that they're actually automatic-opening knives. Usually, automatic folding knives have a button or switch on the handle that is pressed to release the spring-assisted blade. Lone Wolf's line of Double-Action automatics have no visible mechanism to reveal that they are in fact, covert automatic knives.

With SIG P226 for scale

Double-Action Automatics

The Lone Wolf Double-Action Automatics are designed as 'stealth' automatics. Unless someone is familiar with these specific products, there is no obvious feature on the knives that reveals their auto capability on examination. They're called 'Double-Action' because they can also be opened manually/normally, with an ambidextrous thumb stud. The concealed automatic opening mechanism is quite ingenious, and even when a person is shown that they open automatically, the person cannot figure it out most of the time. Lone Wolf offers a variety of blade profiles and handle choices to meet most needs. Illustrated here are three of their Double-Action autos, two of which use the same firing mechanism (Eagle Talon and Warrior). The third (the Harsey) uses a completely different mechanism, also concealed. All are made in the U.S.A.

Note that possession and carry of automatic knives have restrictions under Federal and State laws, so check with your local laws before ordering one. In general, active-duty LE and military folks are exempt from the restrictions, and for civilians, Wiki has a good article that lists the laws by state regarding possession, concealed and non-concealed carry.

Eagle Talon

Description - The Eagle Talon is a medium-sized folder designed to be compact, sleek and comfortable in the hand or pocket. The hidden scale release mechanism is located under the handle, leaving no visible clue to its automatic opening capability.

Blade - The Eagle Talon clip-point, flat ground blade is 3.3" long with partial serrations (plain edge also available). It's 1/8" thick, CPM-S30V stainless heat treated to RC 60-61. There's a serrated thumb rise on the back of the blade to provide control. An ambi thumb stud is provided for manual opening.

Handle - The black composite G-10 handles are shown here. They have a fine checkered texture for a non-slip grip that's not abrasive to the hand or pocket. A bevel runs around the perimeter of the scale. The Eagle Talon is also available with molded nylon handles.

Scale Release Mechanism - The scale release firing mechanism is an ingenious work of engineering that works by sliding the left scale (the side opposite the pocket clip) towards the top of the knife. The scale (the black handle material, not the metal liner) pivots around the rear screw, and moves a sliding bar forward and aft when it pivots back and forth. A stiff leaf spring is located along the back of the handle, fixed at the rear of the handle with the 'free' end at the front of the knife held under tension by the sliding bar. The front of the spring makes contact with the bottom rear of the blade. When the scale is pivoted, it moves the sliding bar forward, releasing the front end of the spring, which pushes forcefully against the rear of the blade, flipping it out. The blade is locked open with the liner lock. To close the blade, it is closed gently into the handle where it presses against the spring and resets it. The blade can also be opened manually by using the ambi thumb stud. It is not advisable to release the spring when the blade is already in the open position.

While the mechanism sounds complicated to describe, it really is quite simple and effective. Operation is easy, but take a bit of getting used to. When held in the right hand, the thumb presses the bottom edge of the scale towards the right, which opens the knife. With the left hand, the index finger is used to pull the scale instead. It's a bit trickier at first, but you soon get used to it.

Closing the blade after opening it in automatic mode requires a more force than closing it after opening it in manual mode, since it needs to reset the spring. I found it easier to close it with my fingers vs. just the thumb as I can get more leverage that way.

Other notes

The T-shaped stainless clip is secured with two torx screws. Note that the clip can only be mounted in that position (tip down carry) and cannot be relocated to the other side. The clip attaches to the handle near the end to keep most of the knife concealed in the pocket.

Specifications - Here's a summary of the main features/specs of the Eagle Talon:

• Overall length - 4.38" closed, 7.6" open. Width is .55" at the widest point at the front of the handle, not including the pocket clip.
• Blade - 3.3" Flat ground clip point. (1.8" from the point to the rear of the serrations) Max thickness: 0.125". Material is CPM-S30V high-carbon stainless steel heat treated to RC 60-61. The edge can be had partially serrated (shown here) or plain with a satin finish.
• Hardware - torx tip screws
• Handle - Black G10 composite (LD24390) or nylon (LD24360)
• Liner - Stainless steel.
• Opening method - Ambi thumb stud, automatic (hidden scale mechanism). Blade is locked open with a liner lock.
• Pocket clip - right side front; not movable.
• Weight 4.1 oz

Double Duty Warrior

Description - The Double Duty Warrior is a slightly smaller folder than the Eagle Talon. It's also designed to be compact, sleek and comfortable in the hand or pocket. It shares the same hidden scale release mechanism located under the handle, leaving no visible clue to its automatic opening capability. The handle of the Warrior has a slight 'banana' curve to it, which is very comfortable in the hand. It's also a very practical size for a folder.

Blade - The Warrior blade is similar to the Eagle Talon blade, but with a slightly shorter clip-point, and deeper belly for most cutting tasks. It was designed to stand up to aggressive use by police and military personnel. Its flat ground blade is 3.3" long, and available with partial serrations or the plain edge shown here. It's 1/8" thick, CPM-S30V stainless heat treated to RC 60-61. The serrated thumb rise on the back of the blade is just a bit shorter than on the Eagle Talon. It has the same ambi thumb stud for manual opening

Handle - The Warrior is available with the same black composite G-10 handles as the Eagle Talon. They have a fine checkered texture for a non-slip grip that's not abrasive to the hand or pocket. A bevel runs around the perimeter of the scale. The Warrior is also available with Cocobolo wood handles.

Scale Release Mechanism - The scale release firing mechanism for the Warrior is exactly the same as that on the Eagle Talon. Operation is identical.

Other notes

The Warrior has the same T-shaped stainless clip as the Eagle Talon, which is mounted for tip down carry and cannot be relocated to the other side. The clip is attached to the handle near the end to keep most of the knife concealed in the pocket.

Specifications - Here's a summary of the main features/specs of the Warrior:

• Overall length - 4.04" closed, 7.02" open. Width is .55" at the widest point at the front of the handle, not including the pocket clip.
• Blade - 3.0" Flat ground clip point. Max thickness: 0.125". Material is CPM-S30V high-carbon stainless steel heat treated to RC 60-61. The edge can be had partially serrated or plain (shown here) with a satin finish.
• Hardware - torx tip screws
• Handle - Black G10 (LD24320) or Cocobolo wood (LD24340)
• Liner - Stainless steel.
• Opening method - Ambi thumb stud, automatic (hidden scale mechanism).
• Pocket clip - right side front; not movable.
• Weight 4.7 oz (not sure whether this is right - it feels lighter than the Eagle Talon. This is the weight from the manufacturer's website).

Harsey D2 Auto

Design - The Harsey D2 Auto was designed by Bill Harsey, Jr. and manufactured by Lone Wolf Knives. Oregon-based Bill Harsey, Jr. is an award-winning knifemaker and designer who also collaborates with several knife companies. He's a big man with big hands and an even bigger smile. Although the D2 was designed with law enforcement and military personnel in mind, it's a relatively large but light weight folder that's suitable for rescue/firefighters or civilians in need of a quick-deploying blade. Like the Warrior and Eagle Talon, the D2 has no button exposed on the handle that gives away the fact that it's an automatic knife.

Blade - The D2 has a drop-point blade design, which is an excellent all-purpose blade format. The drop point is commonly used for hunting knives with a lot of belly for slicing tasks. The blade is flat ground (evenly sharpened from the spine to the edge), and is 3.9" long. It's available with partial serrations or the plain edge shown here. I measured it with calipers and it came in at slightly less than 1/8" thick. This length and thickness makes it easier to slice things than a thicker blade. It's made of CPM-S30V stainless heat treated to RC 60-61 and has a serrated thumb rise on the back of the blade. It has the an ambi thumb stud for manual opening.

Handle - The D2 has molded Kraton (synthetic rubber) scales which are heavily textured to provide a non-slip grip. The Kraton is overmolded over fiberglass-filled nylon for rigidity.

Hidden Release Mechanism - The automatic firing mechanism of the D2 is completely different from that of the Warrior and Eagle Talon. Rather than the rotating scale release, the D2 utilizes a hidden button, molded as part of the left side scale. The button is part of the hard nylon that the softer Kraton is overmolded.

On the left side of the knife, just behind the pivot and slightly towards the back of the handle is the button hidden under the molded Kraton of the scale. Feeling around with the thumb, you can feel a soft spot where the Kraton handle material 'gives'. Holding the knife with the pivot facing away from you, and the fingers not blocking the blade path, the thumb is used to press down on the 'soft' area. The soft area depresses, and the nylon button underneath presses against a small cross bar, which releases the cocked leaf spring. The leaf spring, being under tension, pivots the blade out of the handle to the fully extended position. The liner lock engages the back of the blade, preventing it from closing under normal usage. The blade pivots out with some force, so care (a firm grip) should be taken when deploying the blade. It doesn't take much force on the button to release the blade.

To close the blade, the locking liner is pushed aside and the blade closed carefully back into the handle. The D2 has the same kind of leaf spring as the Warrior and Eagle Talon, which has to be reset when the blade is closed. It's a pretty strong spring, but the extra length of the blade provides enough leverage to reset it quite easily.

The D2 can also be opened manually using the ambi thumb studs. No force is required to close the blade (after unlocking it) as the leaf spring remains cocked.

Other notes

The D2 has a hefty stainless clip which is mounted for tip down carry and cannot be relocated to the other side. Like the other knives, the clip is attached to the handle near the end to keep most of the knife concealed in the pocket.

Specifications - Here's a summary of the main features/specs of the Harsey D2:

• Overall length - 4.9" closed, 8.8" open. Width is .63" at the widest point at the front of the handle, not including the pocket clip.
• Blade - 3.9" Flat ground drop point. (1.8" from the point to the rear of the serrations) Max thickness: 0.115". Material is CPM-S30V high-carbon stainless steel heat treated to RC 60-61. The edge can be had partially serrated or plain (shown here) with a satin finish.
• Hardware - torx tip screws
• Handle - Black Kraton/Nylon
• Frame/Liner - Stainless steel.
• Opening method - Ambi thumb stud, automatic (concealed button).
• Pocket clip - right side front; not movable.
• Weight 4.1 oz

Observations/Notes - I had known of Lone Wolf knives for a few years, but wasn't aware of their stealth automatics until a friend of mine showed a scale-release version to me earlier this year at the SHOT show. He handed it to me, for me to check out, and I looked it over, flipped it open with my thumb, acknowledged that it was a nice knife, then handed it back. I had no clue that it was an automatic knife. He then flipped it open, then closed it, and handed it back to me. Intrigued, I examined it closely, pushing, prodding, fiddling etc, but couldn't figure out the actuation mechanism, which pissed me off because I'm an engineer, and have the obviously mistaken impression that I can figure out anything mechanical. When he finally revealed how it worked, it impressed me even further. To conceal the fact that it's an automatic knife to the casual observer is one thing. To conceal the actual mechanism and baffle someone who already knows that it's an automatic knife is a whole different level. Eventually, someone may press the scale the right way and discover it, but so far, no one I've shown the knives to has happened upon the scale release. The hidden scale release mechanism is an ingenious bit of engineering.

A small caveat is that the pocket clip location cannot be changed to the left side for left-hand carry, due to the need for the left scale to pivot. That's just something a lefty like me needs to work around.

While the opening mechanism of the D2 is visually as covert as the scale release of the Warrior and Eagle Talon, it's much more likely for someone who is looking for the method of release to accidentally discover the button under the scale and actuate it. If the person isn't told that the D2 is an auto knife, it probably won't be discovered under cursory examination. If they know that it is, and they're looking for some kind of button, they'll naturally press and prod the entire knife, eventually opening it. Make sure that they are forewarned to keep their hands and fingers out of the way of the blade path.

Due to its location just behind the pivot, care must be taken to ensure that the hidden button is not pressed accidentally when pulling the knife out of the pocket (this happened to me the first few times when drawing the knife out of my pocket). When the knife is in the pocket (right hand use), the natural grip is with the thumb just behind the pivot with most folders. With the D2, a modified grip needs to be used - either with the thumb on the pivot itself (not behind it), or with the thumb on the back of the handle with the index finger along the spine of the blade. Either way, be aware.

Out of the box, the hidden button didn't take but a light press to release the blade. I would have actually liked a bit more resistance built into the button, so that it wasn't so easy to depress. I ended up modifying it myself by disassembling the left scale from the handle, and taking off a little bit of material from the back of the button where it pressed the release bar, working a bit at a time and testing it to ensure that it still worked and I got the desired resistance. I now have to push the button a bit deeper than before, to release the bar. I can't recommend anyone do this themselves, as removing too much material can prevent the button from contacting the bar and releasing the blade.

Both the Warrior and Eagle Talon make very practical small-medium folders for everyday use, and are small enough not to attract undue attention. The D2 is a bigger folder, and attracts more attention when whipped out of the pocket just because of its size. All are finely crafted, came very sharp right out of the box, are well designed and made of high grade materials. But it's their little secret that sets them apart from other folders.

Here's a short video I made demonstrating the knives being opened.

3/6/09 - The Benchmade Model 615 Mini-Rukus (available from AFMO.com) is the little brother to the hefty full-sized Rukus axis-lock folder. 'Little' is a relative term, as the Mini-Rukus is more of a medium sized folder than a 'mini', with its 3.40" blade and 5.10" closed length. Its two-tone handle and finger grooves give it an appealing look that caught my eye.

Description

Design - The Mini-Rukus is designed by Neil Blackwood, of Blackwood Knives. Browsing through his site, you can see the heritage passed down into the Rukus from some of his other knives like the Grifter, notably the front quillon and finger grooves on the tapered handle.

Mechanism - The Rukus incorporates Benchmade's patented AXIS lock, which utilizes a small hardened steel dumb bell-shaped bar, that rides forward and aft in a slot machined into both steel liners. As Benchmade describes it - the bar extends to both sides of the handle, spanning the liners and positioned over the rear of the blade. The middle portion of the bar engages a ramped, tang portion of the knife blad when it is opened. Two springs, one on each liner, give the locking bar its inertia to engage the knife tang. As a result, the tang is wedged solidly between the stop pin at the front top of the handle, and the AXIS bar, locking the blade in place. The bar can be accessed on either side of the handle and is 100% ambidextrous. To unlock the blade, the bar is pulled back against the spring tension and the blade is freed to rotate into the closed position. The same axis bar puts the blade under spring tension when it's closed, keeping it in the closed position.

Blade - The blade is made from S30V premiums grade steel with excellent corrosion resistance and edge-holding qualities. The Mini-Rukus blade is a flat ground drop point, with a gradual convex curve from the spine down to the point. The drop-point format lowers the point for control but adds strength to the tip. It's probably the most practical all-round blade format for general use. An attractive swage is ground into the spine for the appearance of a false edge. The blade has an attractive burnished, satin finish. It's not stonewash, as there is no discernable scratch pattern. As expected, the edge is extremely sharp right out of the box. The blade can be had with a plain edge, or with partial serrations, and also a black finish with partial serrations. I find myself favouring a plain edge for everyday urban use, as I usually just cut cardboard boxes and vinyl tape. Serrations tend to hang up on the boxes and rip the tape. For camping or hiking, I'd probably pick the partially serrated.
The part of the spine nearest the handle is serrated for greater application of leverage and grip with the thumb.

Handles/Scales - The two tone scales are the feature that catch the eye first (in my case anyway). The front part of the handle is black G10 and the rear olive drab micarta with a very visible weave of the linen. Both are extrememly strong and impervious to moisture or liquids. Benchmade also offers other scale choices for the Mini-Rukus to customize its look. The scales attach to the liners with mini Torx tips screws. The handle forms a quillon (guard) at the front, preventing the index finger from slipping forward, and tapers towards the rear. Some might not like the skinny look of the rear, but it does feel comfortable in the hand. The scales are not flat - they have a slight palm swell to them (for comfort, I assume), which is negated by the clip if it's against the palm.
The liners are made of 420J stainless in a black finish, and are serrated on the top and bottom at the front and on top at the rear for traction. There's a lanyard hole at the rear of the handle.

The carry clip can be installed for right or left hand carry, tip up. I'm glad to have that option as I'm a lefty and like to carry it tip up and blade opening to the rear in my pocket. The clip attaches with two Torx tip screws. I did feel, however, that the clip isn't very secure in most of my pant pockets and I'd prefer it to be tighter.

Specifications - Here's a summary of the main features/specs:

• Overall length - 5.10" closed, 8.50" open. Width is .65" at the widest point at the front of the handle, not including the pocket clip.
• Blade - 3.40" Flat ground drop point. (Actually 4" from the point to the rear of the serrations) Thickness: 0.121". Material is S30V premium steel with a hardness of 58-60HRC. The edge is available plain (shown here) or partially serrated with either a satin finish or black finish.
• Hardware - torx tip screws (pivot and handle)
• Handle - Black G10 and Olive Drab Micarta
• Liner - 420J stainless.
• Opening method - Ambi thumb stud.
• Pocket clip - reversible from either side or end (tip up or down).
• Weight 5.9 oz

Observations/Notes - The Mini Rukus is definitely not a small pocket knife. It's among the larger ones I have. It's got some heft to it, but not too heavy to be a burden in a pocket. The blade is easy to open left or right handed with the thumb stud, and locks open solidly without a hint of movement whatsoever. As it came from the factory, the pivot was adjusted so that it was loose enough to open easily, but not loose enough to open with inertia (which is fine with me - I don't flick my blades open unless they're designed to). The scales are relatively smooth with a hint of texture. Even so, they don't feel slippery at all, and the knife is very secure in the hand due to the shape of the handle and the finger grooves.

The blade is easily unlocked by pulling either side of the axis lock thumb stud rearward and starting to close the blade with the index finger. This being my first axis lock, I found it more suited to ambidextrous use than a liner lock. Most liner locks are optimized for right hand use and some can be a bit difficult to unlock with index or middle finger instead of the thumb. Another thing about the axis lock is that I don't have to put my finger in the path of the blade in order to unlock/close it. With liner locks, unlocking the liner as a lefty usually requires me to grip the knife with my fingers wrapped completely around the handle so I can start to close the blade with my thumb. I've had a couple of near nicks when closing the blade too quickly and almost didn't get my finger tips out of the way in time. At least for me, I found the axis locks easier and safer to manipulate as a lefty.

As I mentioned above, my only complaint was with the clip not having enough tension. So, I did what I've done with other clips - I decided to bend it a bit more at the attachment end near the screws. I put some pressure on it with a pair of pliers and it promptly broke. I was surprised that it broke, as I've bent other clips with no ill effects. The clip material is very stiff, but more brittle than others. In retrospect, I should have tried to put a slight bend in the long part of the clip itself, but what was done was done. So, don't bend it at the attachment end.

The Mini Rukus makes a practical EDC blade for general use - I've been putting it through a decidedly non-tactical diet of cardboard, vinyl tape and plastic tie straps, and it's retained its initial sharpness very well, only requiring the occasional touch up with a fine stone (which I do with all the knives I use). I think it's a good choice for a medium-sized folder, especially if you're looking for something looking different from the rest.

4/10/07 - Strider Knives, in San Marcos, CA, need no introduction to those who appreciate the best in hard-use cutting tools. Shown here is a DB, with modified G10 Gunner grips from a Mod 10 instead of cord wrapping on the handle, making it a DB-GG. Strider does not currently offer the gunner grips as an option the DB (but they do offer gunners on some models), or for replacement - this was one was done up partly as an experiment to gage interest in the grips (which has been very positive so far). Note that the dimples on the Strider knife gunners are more 'diamond-shaped' instead of the circular ones on the original 1911 Simonich/Strider gunner grips. Flat G10 scales with ridges are an option on the DB, though, if you want G10 handles instead of the standard cord wrapping. I sent a Colt 1911 to MARS Armament for some gunsmithing work, with the gunner "golf ball" texture done on the front straps and mainspring housing, so I wanted a matching gun and knife.

The DB was a collaboration in the early 90's between Duane Dwyer of Strider Knives and Darryl Bolke (hence the DB), a Southern California LEO, who's well known in the tactical community and from his articles in SureFire's Combat Tactics magazine. It was designed from the ground up as a concealable tool for law enforcement officers; a hard-use backup knife that was suitable for any task thrown at it; cutting, prying etc. Since then, it has also found a huge following in the military and the LE aviation community. The DB has 1/4" thick CPM S30V blade, 3-1/4" long. The spine of the blade has a serrated portion for secure placement of the thumb, and serrations on the rear of the handle when a reverse grip is used.
This DB is shown with the kydex sheath, which has a Tek-Lok attachment. The Tek-Lok is reversible for right/left hand use and also for carrying the knife up or down. It's a low profile sheath that holds the knife securely - very practical and impervious to moisture.

Darryl is currently working with Strider Knives to develop a line of LE-oriented knives. The G10 scale option are a step in that direction, as some view the cord wrap to 'look' more suited for military instead of LE use, even though it's entirely functional for all purposes. G10 scales are an additional cost, and the gunner 'golf ball' grips are even more expensive and difficult to manufacture, which is why they are not currently offered as an option. The aim of the Strider LE line is to get the best tools to people who need them the most, without being prohibitively expensive. But if there's enough demand for the gunner grips, and people are willing to pay the premium, they might be persuaded to give in and accomodate it, so please direct all inquires to Strider Knives if you're interested.

12/9/07 - SAR Global Tool (formerly SAR Knives) is a one-man custom knife shop run by Spencer Alan Reiter (hence the 'SAR'), a full time soldier stationed at Ft. Polk, LA. He currently works are the Joint Readiness Training Center as an Observer/Controller training soldiers in the fight against terrorism. Knife-making is currently a part time committment for Spencer, who experiments with different designs and materials, but he'd eventually like to make it his full time business. If you visit his website, you'll see that some of his designs are quite unique and imaginative, and deviate from the norm. One of his newest creations is featured here - the SARclops.

The SARclops is aptly named as it has a single 'eye', or ring for a handle. The SARclops is 1/8" thick CPM 154 steel heat treated to Rockwell 59 with a ceramic tumbled/stonewash finish. Except for the cutting edge (which came shaving sharp), all other edges are rounded off and smooth for comfort when gripping. It's supplied with a kydex sheath, which Spencer makes fo each knife, and milspec bead chain for neck carry. The sheath is flat on one side.

The SARclops is available plain, or with a cord-wrapped handle. It's also available in different blade variations - tanto, spear point, drop point and wharncliff. The Spearpoint is shown here. Visit the SAR website to see the other blade variations. All of them are a bit different as they're all ground by hand. Workmanship/quality is excellent, as expected from a custom knife.

The Spear point SARclops shown here has a blade length of 1.5", and an overall length of 4.65" measured from the tip of the blade to the point at the rear of the finger ring. Don't let it's small size fool you - this blade is capable of producing serious wounds. Pushed into a soft surface like flesh, it can easily penetrate double its length. The inner diameter of the ring is 1-1/8" without cord wrapping. The cord wrapping reduced the diameter to about 1", which is still more than large enough for me to use it with a glove on. The back of the ring comes to a point, which acts as a stop against the fourth finger. There's a small lanyard hole here as well, through which the cord wrap passes.

Spencer found a way to attach a Malice clip to the kydex sheath by a couple of chicago screws. With the Malice clip installed, the SARclops can be attached to any PALS webbing on a rig or belt. The Malice clip can also be used as a belt loop.

As seen in the photo below, the SARclops is intended to be used primarily with the middle finger through the ring. The index finger goes under the neck and the thumb rests on the top of the ramp/neck. Held this way, the SARclops is very secure in the hand, and will not fall out of the grasp, even when held loosely. The thumb on the back of the ramp provides more than enough power behind the blade when pushing or slicing.

The SARclops can also be used without inserting the finger through the ring. The ring can just be held, and the thumb placed on the back/spine of the blade where there are three grooves for thumb traction. You have a lot of control for detail tasks with the SARclops held this way and this is where the SARclops can be used as a more general purpose blade instead of defensive one.

As mentioned above, the SARclops can be had with or without the cord wrapping. I like the cord wrapping myself, as I have small fingers and the cord wrapping also adds a degree of comfort and traction. Spencer wraps the handles himself, and it's very well done - extremely tight. The cord wrap end is about 2", and I find that gives my fourth and little finger something to wrap around. The pewter skull bead on the end is a cool touch.

I wore the SARclops on a neck chain for a while, and pretty much found it unnoticeable throughout the day. The only drawback to the neck chain is that you have to reach up under your shirt to access the SARclops, as it places it at the sternum level. The Malice clip can be used to wear the SARclops on a belt, but it's not very 'streamlined', as the end of the Malice clip sticks out at the bottom. The Malice clip works well for mounting it to MOLLE/PALS webbing, though.

I found that the simplest way to mount it was with a couple of plastic zip-ties used to form belt loops. The belt goes through the zip-tie loops and the loops straddle a belt loop on the pants to keep the knife in place. This is the lowest-profile method I've found, and it works extremely well for me. It puts the SARclops horizontally on the belt, which is easier to access than if it were mounted vertically. All I have to do is grab the ring and pull rearwards instead of up. For me, it's a more natural drawstroke. It's completely concealed under a t-shirt and I only have to lift up the bottom of the shirt a couple of inches to access it. Standing casually with my hands on my hips with my thumbs tucked into my pants top, my hand naturally covers the knife and the ring is already in my grip. Worn on the belt horizontally, the SARclops is unobtrusive and comfortable to wear, and quicker to access than a folder. The SARclops is a great backup knife to a larger blade and currently my second EDC knife, in addition to the folder I carry in my pocket.

12/14/06 - Another good value offered by CountyComm are their Pocket Pry Bars. They come as a set - one small and one large. They're U.S.-made, forged out of tool steel with a bead blasted finish. The small bar is 5.5" long and 0.5" wide. The large one is 6" long and 1" wide. They each have two usable ends, each with a beveled nail slot. The long ends also have nail puller holes.

I've illustrated some of the uses below, and how the features are used. The beveled ends are sharp enough to dig and get under the heads of nails, staples etc, and the nail slots or holes can be used to pry them out. Which slot is used depends on where you get your leverage. Used as mini-pry bars, they can be used for all sorts of prying tasks instead of a screwdriver - opening paint cans, etc. The L-bend gives you more leverage and options than a screwdriver, and since they're flat, they can be inserted deeper into gaps.

I discovered that they can be slipped inside molle webbing, but with sharp edges, you'll have to be careful where you place them to avoid injury. They're great little tools and will save you from using an expensive knife blade for prying jobs, and probably work better as well. So far, they seem very sturdy and resistant to bending.

6/17/07 - If the Pocket Pry Bars from CountyComm are too big, take a look at their Pocket Widgy Bar and Micro Widgy Bar. These dimunitive pry bars will fit just about anywhere - and are designed just like the pry bars shown above, only without the L-Bend. They have the have nail puller slots and holes, and are made of steel. The Pocket Widgy Bar (larger one) is 4.1" long and the Micro Widgy Bar is 3" long. Both are 0.5" wide. They each have a key-ring hole at the end of the handle. Just like the larger pry bars, these are useful for pulling nails, staples etc when you don't want to damage a knife blade or have a screwdriver handy.

The "Ultimate Collector's Bag" from CountyComm is a padded case for transporting/storing your folding knife, watch collection or similarly shaped collectibles. The bag has a Maratac label in it, so I'm assuming that it's made by or for Maratac, who manufacture the Zulu watchbands. The bag measures 12" wide x 10.5" tall x 2.5" thick. The carry handles wrap around the reinforced bottom, and on the front is a 4" x 2" patch of loop velcro. The bag opens out flat, and is completely lined with soft, black padding.

There are 16 heavily padded compartments - each 5" deep and 2.5" across. Each side of the bag has 8 compartments, with the front ones staggered lower than the rear (they're both the same 5" depth). They'll hold folding knives, slim flashlights, watches etc, in padded safety.

Also available from CountyComm is this Victorinox Current Issue German Army knife. They're Swiss made for the German Army with OD nylon handles and the Bundeswehr crest on them. Overall length closed is 4.35" and width 0.7". It's similar to the Swiss Army One-Hand Trekker LockBlade Pocket knife, only in green instead of black, and without the tweezers and toothpick. All blades/tools are stainless for ease of maintenance. I find the shape more pleasing and ergonomic than the usual blocky feel of the red Swiss Army knives. This one isn't overloaded with tools, just some of the more useful ones:

• Main blade - this is 3.2" long and partially serrated. One-handed opening via the hole in the blade, and has a liner lock. I'd have preferred the serrated part to be closer to the handle, and a plain blade in front, but that's just me.
• 3.5" wood saw
• Phillips screwdriver
• Awl/reamer - for punching/drilling holes and enlarging them. Care should be taken to do it slowly when pushing it through material as it doesn't lock.
• Small screwdriver
• Can opener
• Large screwdriver (also locks)
• Bottle opener/wire stripper
• Lanyard split ring

Basically a well-made, practical multi-tool/knife and a good addition to anyone's survival/emergency kit. Note that in the photos below, some of the blades/implements appear black. That's just because of the lighting - if I let them reflect, they'd be washed out.